Sunday, January 2, 2011

Slimish Blue Oxford Rundown



Epiphany is a little strong, but that's what I had after reading the unrefindable blog of some gent who was setting off on a two week trip to Singapore, Thailand and other places I've never been to, and was limiting his shirt battery to four blue oxfords and one white. I think I'd been unconsciously disposed to the blue oxford, and the calm, pleasing, and, when cut properly, flattering statement it makes. However, I was only just starting to get my four year old Banana one back into the out and about rotation and like an aging DH its retirement is long overdue. Enter the Brooks Brother's Extra Slim Fit line and the Blind Oxford Tasting post on The Trad's blog and I'm almost a full blown enthusiast. The aforementioned posts mainly focused on $80-$149 shirts that seemed to come in too wide so I thought I would go after less pricey slimmer types. The following is what's not pictured below.

J. Crew only has white, sun-faded and rounded point collar versions, Banana Republic also only has white (as of last week there's a blue one that's "just in" and looks great but...), not that it's worth going into, but I'm trying to be comprehensive so; The Gap restricts itself to short sleeved and Express/AE have none for males. The overly blog hyped revival of Land's End proves empty again with its offering of a shirt whose weave is far too tight and blue dominated, already reviewed here, and taste may be a matter of taste but their "Canvas" edition's collar is way too "re-proportioned". Ralph's were either ponied, puntered (Rugby) or "distressed" all marks that violate the semi-discreet aspect I entered as part of the criteria. Band of Outsiders and Thomas Pink were more spendy than I spend. J. Press for some reason wasn't sought out, we'll say it was assumed to be too wide, yes that's it. Dickies and American Apparel were complete yuck, i.e. beyond horrible, the latter's fabric giving new meaning to cheap looking even if it wasn't also cling-wrap thin.


Done. Note,this post is riddled with links, it's immediately clear that this is the first time I've photographed clothes, and yes those are the same shirts under tweaked iPhone camera settings. Now, the entrants.


I spent too much time paging through their catalogue when I was in grade school so even though the "new trim fit" diagram showed this was only slightly less billowing than than the standard version I crossed fingers put it in my cart. This was a mistake, as a pair of socks could be made from the excess fabric and back/sides would still mushroom like crazy at the waist. French Blue is the color I should have ordered as the Bean's "blue" was light. The cloth here was definitely the most rigid and while the detailing was agreeable this shirt shows why oxfords fell so out of favor with general populace. Freeport didn't merit a snapshot and has instead been placed under the other shirts to demonstrate relative width. Here and with the big winner I'm a 17-34. The rest are mediums.
Value 5th - Cut 5th - Weave 5th - Color N/A - Overall 5th


As the name of this oxford hints at, Bonobos is an enlighten company. Go here to get $50 off your first order of more than $100. Not wanting to scare away the average bro they only mention that Bentham's fit is "not too boxy and not to slim" when it reality it's the most contoured of the five, however, the manner in which this is achieved is so clandestine that your friends and mother won't be able to pin down why you look so sharp. I think the button on the back of the collar is a superfluous detail that shows a lack of confidence on the part of the designer, but the collar is spot on and the big weave and color are great after a very short getting to know you period.
Value 4th - Cut 1st - Weave 3rd - Color 2nd - Overall 3rd

Critics, click here, are right. There is no extra about this slim, but it's still very flattering while raising even less an eye than the Bentham. Apparently men's style forum haunters are divided on its grayer blue color but that and the overly white weave have my number seven times over. Notice I unknowingly ordered the Supima as opposed to the Original. They are both the same price. The BB ESF also sports the healthiest collar collar in the contest. Here's The Trad experts point/counterpoint on the same.
Value 2nd - Cut 3rd - Weave 1st - Color 1st - Overall 1st
According to Valet this JCPenney house brand is designed by Ralph Lauren, and I'd say it shows. The weave, collar, and fit are pretty darn good and personally I like the flag carrying eagle even if its head and neck are a little goosey. That logo does prompt a lot of questions so be prepared to say "JCPenney" or come up with a fun lie, also there's some pink accents that have been inexplicably put on the shirt tails.
Value 3rd - Cut 4th - Weave 2nd - Color 3rd - Overall 4th



The Brooks Brother's 34 inch sleeve lands just above the base of my thumb and this lone foreign entry's medium is just as long but cut very high and so narrowly that they feel shorter. Toss in the much trimmer trunk and our slimmest contender is almost disqualified for buckling during deep breaths/given points for making me feel busty. Hopefully it's evident from the photos at the very top, but the weave was tighter than some, smaller but nicely collared, and the quality of that fabric didn't raise any concern. Not having access to there sole U.S. location in SOHO I took the leap and placed my first email order that some how got pared down to the this lone oxford. Info is here. I paid $7 for shipping.
Value 1st - Cut 2nd - Weave 4th - Color 4th - Overall 2nd